My favorite things: 1) tearing my house apart and 2) putting it back together again. Their advertising blurb says, “Rx-35 Sealer/Primer repairs torn drywall to create a wall surface that can be floated, spackled, painted or hung with wallpaper,” so what I’m thinking is she believed I bought R-35, not RX-35 – two different things. But then you know what not to do, and your completed project secretly holds all of this badass juju from knowing that it was your sweat that made it a reality. If I ever get the @! We removed some chair rails and are hoping for a nice smooth wall once we’re done. I plan to do some serious drywall replacement in this room as well, and Im wondering if I should primer this new drywall as well? but wondered if you’ve tried the new DUST CONTROL formula. I’m glad to hear it looks fine right now, but shine a bright light on the spot in all angles to see if you see it already bubbling… usually in my case the bubble was present well before the paint went on. I guess you could say…I took the Cheat way out!! Or that I have to buy $100 and 5 gallons worth instead of just the amount I need. Ok, this part sucks. Where was this post three months is ago? Unlike most primers you would be used to in the paint world, this goes on more like glue (it looks like skim milk in the can, actually). No results online about it sticking to a sheen surface, so I called the company directly, and was told it will adhere just fine to the eggshell, but not to skim coat over the RX-35 because the joint compound won’t adhere to it properly. If you’re not adverse to the greater cost and heavier labor associated with demo’ing and hanging new drywall, I tend to think that’s the better way to go–especially for larger areas of damage. I still didn’t even know most of the lingo. Glad I could help! This year, I couldn’t wait! Now there are vertical runs in the wall where the paneling glue pulled the paint layer off down to the drywall paper layers. About an hour after putting the last coat of trim paint on I removed the tape and to my disgust large chunks of the wall and ceiling paint and primer came away from the skim-coating. Subscribing is one of the best ways to get updates, snag DIY tips, and see progress! The remaining compound that your knife cannot scrape off is the skim-coat. If you want a plain wall and you've tried in vain to strip off the old wallpaper, you may be able to mud over it. I know you mentioned using the Lightweight Plus 3, with not much difference in dust . But once I started on the dining room and kitchen, I realized that there was a crucial step I’d missed (and hadn’t really needed yet). I appreciated the comments regarding the paint and primer in one products. None as thorough as yours. I was able to purchase a quart of Gardz today and plan to put that on before I prime over that spot. It also seals the drywall compound, which helps the paint to stick (I’ve seen it come off the wall before… talk about a ruined project on the very last step!). The water in the latex paint will soak into the very top layer of drywall mud. This works every time for me with the best results. I’m soooo happy I found your blog! Green Dot or topping mud is exactly that ,top coat and easy sand . And I keep finding links to your blog. Since most of the surface is painted, I looked to see if RX-35 would adhere well to the finish as well as the drywall paper, or if I should just paint it onto the areas that I plan to float/fill with joint compound (I’m not floating the whole wall). No bueno. i agree and thats what i was trying to avoid was the bubbles. I have been considering switching from Feedburner to another subscription service (like Mailchimp), but I can’t decide on what people might prefer. At this point I would not use them for skim coating given that bit of info right off of their packaging. A forum community dedicated to professional drywallers and enthusiasts. 1 Treat a skim-coated wall like new drywall, with a coat of primer paint first. I’m a dyed-in-the-wool DIYER. If you prime and the bubble pops up, then the drywall guy might not have actually fixed the problem (the fact that you hired out to have the problem fixed means that if it again pops up, you should make him fix the job you paid for). THANK YOU! Regarding paint & primer combos; I hate them. Paint. And I certainly didn’t know the lingo. Bubbling still happened for me, even after checking the wall numerous times. I’ve found that switching this up did help me to get a better finish on later projects, but it’s more prone to scratching (so prime that wall asap when you’re done!). But, I’m also a first time homeowner. Same amount of work, less $$. I really like getting them as soon as possible. I asked him if he thought there was an issue with the drywall itself in that spot and he didn’t think so. The process of smoothing textured walls with skim coating is fairly common. I’m left with wall that are in pretty rough shape. But I typically do a light pass with a sanding block after everything else is finished. That covers most of the tools I still use, where to find them, a little lingo, and the basic steps for getting a smooth finish. No bubbles. Excuse me a moment while I curse whomever did this along with every one of their ancestors. I got the 90-minute tip from a friend who has skim coated walls with it many times… but ONLY as a first layer. Joy, a 73-yo grannie about to begin my project post-wallpaper-removal with Gardz & skim-coating. Too bad for me I can’t be expecting a wonderful tutorial on that from you! Thanksgiving. And after all of that effort you put in, don’t let the last step ruin everything. The RX-35 is a sealer/primer, so this has worked well for me. This won’t change your price, but may share some commission. Then, patch up the area with more joint compound. I guess at this point I’ll bookmark you haha. Latex paints are water based. You probably don’t need to use the RX-35… it’s meant to work as a sealer, which the paint did already (as long as it stuck), so you can probably just start filling in the dings like you would when you mark up your walls after moving a picture frame. Regarding the RX-35… Do you just use that on sections of drywall that appear torn, or the entire room? I’ll be using the paint roller method with a 1 1/4″ roller nap (cover) and I thinned down the all purpose joint compound with water. Of course, that also means you learn more new tricks and tips as you do the same projects over and over. Oh boy, after reading the original skim coat tutorial and then the follow up, I’m trying to decide whether to just hire someone to come put wallpaper up again or try my hand at the venetian plaster finish, anything sounds less daunting then what you have done! Most paint products (especially paint/primer combos) are formulated to work on walls that have already been painted. Then simple texturing. and one of 90 min. I’ve learned the same way you have-hopefully getting better each time also and learning about the different products. So do yourself a favor, and prevent this as much as possible. setting type that I had been using for the repairs seemed like a good idea. The culprit is mainly sanding screens (recommended in my last tutorial), and the suction from the vacuum sticks the sander on the wall pretty closely. If you leave an affiliate or monetized link when making a comment on this site, such links might get overwritten by a plugin I have installed that uses my own internal tracking. There is no sign of bubbling after the primer coat so it looks like Gardz worked. But once it’s down and your walls are smoother, you’ll be really happy you have the result you want. The Gardz helped my issue a great deal. It all looks good now but last night after he put on the first coat, that spot looked to me like it had a few bubbles in it. I am soooooo not looking forward to this process but at least I feel a little better about starting it. I did a little more research the second time around, and the online forums (of pros/experienced DIYers) seemed to all recommend the same product: Gardz. I’m hoping that doing that will take care of the issue but know that I may not be addressing the root issue by sealing the seperated drywall paper below the skimcoat. I usually do that but i amd reskimming about 400 sq of ceiling for a woman. You also get FREE access to my plans & patterns libraries! No matter what happened to your walls, every once in a while, it’s a good idea to skim coat your walls to keep the surface smooth. The difference with level 5 is that the pro will add the skim coat or similar materials to make the whole surface even. A skim coat can be painted once it is dry. I wanted to look at it this morning but he got there pretty early and had already put on the 2nd coat. You are just amazing, I can relate with so much of your struggle since I’ve been doing the very same thing these past few months, thanks for the tips SUPER HELPFULL, I also couldn’t find anything comprehensive, dealt with bubbles, dealt with adding another coat just to create more problems, disappointment, scratches, conundrums, lots of forums and the “just to make sure I did everything I could mentality” lol. They get repainted, wallpapered, stripped, hammered, and scraped. It all looks so easy on You tube but the reality is different. It’s entirely defeating to see it happen, because it means a new problem to fix. In this situation I’ve had good results adding about a cup of water to gallon of joint compound. And like me, you may find that all of the prep work in the world will still turn up a bubble or two. Stripping wallpaper I must say is a daunting task even for the professionals. Put mud on, take it off completely, then coat it heavier and you should not have any bubbles. You can definitely skim coat over paint, but it depends. You can also get a small paintbrush to help you paint any hard to reach spots, such as the corners or above the baseboards. Before you can skim coat wallpaper with a layer of joint compound, you must test the procedure in a small area. Works for me. Thanks for the info and you have just found a new follower of your adventures ;). The bathroom is far from perfect, but we’re proud of it as our first go around. I’ve read many different tips and steps for repairing and skim coating drywall. This material is porous, which means it soaks up a lot of paint. And therein lies the challenge: the right tutorial for me. Ugly Duckling House is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. This is because walls which have paint that is no longer in good condition will either need repairs or a professional may need to strip the paint first. Home centers sell drywall sponges for smoothing dried mud with water. Enough commenters gave the same tip that I was sure their ringing endorsement would work – so I put it on every wall in the kitchen and dining room. RX-35 over the paint, then skim, and, prime, and repaint? The back-and-forth motion of the brush leaves a pattern in the mud at the top of the wall that is called a hatband. Wish I could have read this seven years ago. But after giving it a shot, I didn’t seem to get anything out of it except more bubbles and an unfortunate stink from the fumes (be sure to read that sentence in context, ha). Got a DIY question? Since this is pretty much a novel at this point, why not add a conclusion, right? It was over an area where I had done some joint compound work. First time was right after my divorce and I made my kitchen my divorce project and fucked up my butcher block sink hole. Is there a blog about that? And if you do the same project enough times, you might actually get very good at it. works for me. Tried steam, didn’t work, but I guess I just got the short straw with this house, ha! I use a different primer between sanding and painting. My opinion differs from yours in the choice of primer. Are you recommending the RX-35 sealer prior to the skim coat, with a different primer in between the sanding and the painting? It sucks up the dust so well that I don’t feel like I’m putting myself in harm’s way when I can’t find my dust mask (PSA: you should probably always wear them. Just skim coating projects popcorn ceiling is also an older ceiling (pre 1978) which could have as asbestos or lead paint. I took down my wallpaper and am having a painter coming to spray texture for me. :). After what I thought was a very thorough mud and sanding process, I painted with one coat of the infamous paint and primer – in – ones… :( The hardness of it is the draw, and especially useful on new drywall seams. If the mud is the drying type mud as opposed to the setting type mud, the latex paint will partially dissolve the top layer of mud, smoothing out some very minor drywall imperfections and the latex paint will create a great bond with “clean” mud. I’d rather do multiple coats that go on smooth and easy than use that stuff again. Don't scrape your painted popcorn ceiling. ok ty.. jw because im doing a remodel and have a cpl of patches.. and i hate that crap, I,ve found putting a good primer[like Adirondack] on 1st works,but then you lose a day. In today's skim coating tutorial. If I have an entire wall to skim coat I use 90. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. I use only setting type joint compound. I noticed an increase in the number of superficial scratches I get in the wall when using the vacuum sander than when doing things by hand. Non-PSA: But sometimes I’m lazy and the sander is right there, so I will let my motivation to get something done win. Thank you for that feedback! I highly recommend it. ), and now, prepping for painting. Use a clean roller to apply the top coat in an upward motion over the mist coat. One more example (an example to be avoided) of the effect of latex paints on drywall mud is the “hatband” effect that people get when a paint brush is used to cut-in when painting the area where a wall meets a ceiling. I’m in the middle of doing the first of a 4 room remodel. That “Do not use again. Comment Policy: I love comments, especially if they make me laugh. Get-r-dun is on track, skim it on wait awhile and go over it again,sometimes that takes care of it, but remember,you,ll never do it with 1 or 2 coats anyways. However, if the surface has been damaged, exposed to water or if you have a very shiny paint to cover, some preparation will be necessary to ensure no bubbling develops in the finish when you're done. Only trouble was, it didn’t seem to be available except to order online. Will it EVER end?!!! It’s very time consuming and the end result isn’t particularly adequate for the time spent trying to perfect the imperfections. I’ll be following your blog and thank you so much for taking the time to help others with your experiences. Mission accomplished. Yes, prior to skim coating, I began by sealing off the old paper. I’ve only used it once or twice in patching areas where there was a significant chunk to fix rather than the whole wall, but I’m glad you called attention to that. I don't think that it's my technique, and I don't think that the compound has been over-mixed. I would not use such a primer for walls that have been partially mudded or skim coated. In the meantime, I’ve got to figure out how to smoothe/repair the plaster walls in the rest of my house. When I asked if you’ve tried Sheetrock’s LIGHTWEIGHT (Blue Lid) product, I was referring to the NEW “Plus 3 “WITH DUST CONTROL” formula that differs from the Lightweight Plus 3 (Blue Lid) by reducing airborne dust? And it doesn’t really get much better with adding more layers of joint compound, so I discovered that the best thing to do is to seal the surface. Enjoyed your tutorials. So if a bunch of spots don’t have that problem, you’re in much better shape than most of my walls! There is an “easy-sand” joint compound product that also dries in 45 minutes. If you still see indentations or imperfections after the second coat dries, trowel on a third coat. I use a brush to cut-in, but I only do that for a few feet before I follow over the brush marks with a roller. The primer and paint just peel right away like the primer had never adhered to the skim-coating. I’m really glad that you mentioned that the joint compound you use should be mixed thoroughly because it can make a difference when sanding a wall. I’ve also used it for backsplash tile prep. mud pan and taping knives: the smaller 6″ taping knife is great for mixing mud and skim coating small areas such as a window sill. i've heard sanding the paint with 80grit works (but haven't tried it), and I'm curious if running over the surface with one of those round topped red zinnser wallpaper scorer things would help (since its the paint's refusal to let moisture into the board that bubbles the mud). I plan to apply a Santa Fe type texture so my question is – after I put on the primer sealer do I need to skim coat since I’ll be applying a texture? I’ve spent most of my summer removing wallpaper. Can surfaces be too heavily textured to skim coat? Hi Sarah! We often skim coat walls. The problem is that I'm getting a large amount of bubbling in the compound. Bubbling (or sometimes called “blistering”) happens when the paper layers in the drywall become separated. I didn’t know what to do so I called a drywaller guy I trust and he told me that it was just an issue of the primer pealing off. But we have the dreaded bubbles right now after trying a layer of mud. For more on photo licenses and other use permissions, click here (in true UDH style, it’s actually kind of fun and snarky to read). It is EXACTLY what I want, but am having trouble finding it. 1. Very helpful. After all, it’s better to remove them rather than seeing the bubbles in your paint job (spoiler alert: they only become more noticeable). Thanks! I have just stumbled on your blog after losing the last two months of my life to renovating a huge flip project. I don’t judge. And then, once again, pass this new knowledge on to you. Hey there! What I’ve found is that the minutes only refers to the time available to use it, NOT the time it takes to cure for a subsequent coat and/or sanding. If it does, the edges will be dry in about a half hour anyway, then just come back and skim those areas with your 6. ive got some ceilings to skim tommorow. As with most of the other quick-drying stuff, you will need to mix this on your own from a powder form rather than buying in a pre-mixed bucket (like you would with all-purpose or the lightweight stuff). I’m a teacher, and I’m usually not so excited to go back to school in the fall. We then use gardz to prime and seal. As long as the surface is ready for repainting, it will also be ready for skim coating. Pour the top coat color into a new paint pan. I was so reassured by your discussion of conflicting recommendations from experts– I thought I was just misunderstanding what i was reading. So was checking out the net as usual for more tips. However, I have a bag of 20 min. Your blog and all the comments were nice to read. Once dry, the wall can be painted, wallpapered and otherwise decorated as normal. I’ve dealt with a few more puzzling obstacles with each subsequent room, and despite the frustration, I’m probably better for it (at least for the next house, whenever that may be). You’ll damage your liver less by not drowning your frustrations in beer. ;). You suggest Glidden’s Gripper primer which is an organic solvent based primer. It’s not perfect, and I’ve heard Gardz is even better, but the convenience of finding the right product is often just as important as knowing what it is in the first place. I'm Sarah. Look at the walls after pulling paneling off. That’s what removing wallpaper did for me! Now it’s sanded and looks great but I’m concerned that the bubble might reappear when I prime. It appears to have several coats of high gloss paint over the top and the paint doesn’t reach all the way into the “valleys” of the texture. Cover the floor with a canvas or plastic drop cloth. 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Cover doorways with plastic sheeting—held in place with painters tape—to contain the splatters and dust. Mixer can be done over most paint finishes with no special preparation Improvement... The dust removed ( to clean it ) before it is just what I needed better,... And putting it back together again uglyducklingDIY or use the hashtag # uglyducklinghouse to show off your!! Type compounds are perfectly capable for skim coating process involves applying a thin of! Left with wall that is of stuff in my experience the setting type compounds are perfectly capable skim. Also and learning about the need to get around this and show you what to avoid was the.... Water slowly until the mixture has a slightly thicker consistency than paint readers can make an entire month ’ entirely. Looks great but I typically do a light pass with a sanding block after everything else peel.... 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As the surface is ready to take paint now it ’ s products are different or not paint really... Complete, it will only then bubble ( maybe ) on thinned down coat! Painted walls the brush leaves a pattern in the compound over paint upstairs! Easy-Sand ” joint compound to a divot in a single coat of compound. Imperfections that I wanted to thank you for this post, like kismet was reading pattern the. My kitchen my divorce and I hope that helps you and I love your and! Oil-Based primer, friends, and Decorating | Atlanta, GA | Sarah Fogle & the Duckling! Case, RX-35 is a thin coat of joint compound to a in! Painted right over the top of it as our first go around much more unlikely to skim coat over paint... Drywall still looks fine me I can ’ t know what “ level 5 is that had! Out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!... I ’ m also a first time homeowner and I wanted to at... One fuckup is bound to happen post-wallpaper-removal with Gardz & skim-coating “ easy-sand ” joint compound, might! Simple wall repaint challenge: the right tutorial for me with the wall numerous times insistent on after! Avoid was the bubbles that has been sanded, it peeled off of their.!

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